I think the thing I like most about Lent is that for one day of the week it makes you do something out of the ordinary. When Friday comes I usually find myself considering parts of the menu I don’t normally look at. I’m a sucker for meat and I admit it. Going to a fish fry just does not excite me in the least. Ask most people what a memorable night out is, and I’m sure a trip to the local “chippy” isn’t going be near the top of the list.
Tonight I hit up Battiste & Dupree in South Euclid. The crawfish etouffee is absolute money. If you haven’t been here you’ve got to try it. Junior Battiste is a no nonsense former military man who cranks out the most authentic Cajun fare in the city. The kitchen (which you can see from the counter) is SPOTLESS. I usually order carry-out, typically calling a half an hour before I want to pick it up. While waiting for my order a lady told me her son will only eat Junior's fried chicken. My interest is now piqued. I now have to go back for the fried chicken. This place is a hidden gem.
Speaking of Lenten options…
I spent this last week out on the east coast. After taking the ferry from Port Jefferson, LI to Bridgeport, CT I decided to take the short drive up to New Haven and pay Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria a visit. Held in high esteem by the pizza man himself (Ed Levine) I had to try their signature pizza that has white sauce and freshly shucked clams. I was totally blown away by how good this pie was. The white sauce plays in the background as you enjoy the brininess of the clams coated with Parmesan and herbs. (I spent the next night in Yonkers where an outpost has opened and I can safely say that the more conventional pie with pepperoni, sausage, and mozzarella is worth a trip, as well.)
Speaking of Legends…
There are times that these well publicized places meet the lofty expectations set by the broadcast media as well as print and the internet. I stopped at Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, NJ and I can assure you that had the expectation been set at “above average” it would have been a disappointment, (even if they did come with a delicious sweet relish). They serve hot dogs that are in the deep fryer so long that they split (hence the name “rippers”). The dining room is dirty, service sucked, and hot the dogs tasted like ass.
Speaking of Ass…
Looking for dessert, I took mine down to the Waffle & Dinges truck after I saw the insane crowd inside of Milk Bar. If you’ve never had a liege waffle you don’t know what you’re missing. These are not the typical waffles made from a bowl of runny batter. The liege waffle is actually made with a dough that has pearl sugar in it. When the heavy European irons hit a specific temperature the sugar is transformed into a crispy caramelized coating on the waffle. Delicious. Top one of these suckers with Speculoos, a lighter version of peanut putter with hints of cinnamon and caramel, and you have an awesome dessert for about $5. With the relative heat wave that was in full swing that night, the East Village alive with foot traffic. There’s something about the first real break in the weather that seems to make for an exciting night out.
Speaking Heat…
Ever since I read Bill Buford’s Heat I’ve wanted to learn how to break down a whole hog. Last night while I was taking a piss at the Greenhouse Tavern I saw an advert on the wall offering a hog butchering class. I went upstairs and signed up for that, (right after I washed my hands). Considering the Mosefund Mangalitsa Pigstock 2010 teaching seam butchery would have set me back 7 and a half bills (this is on my list of things to see), GHT’s conventional butchery class is a relative bargain at just one.
Speaking of Mangalitsa…
I met some friends of mine at Momofuku Noodle Bar for dinner. I was gobsmacked when they told me the dinner special for the night – Mangalitsa pork short rib on a bed of mustard tossed cabbage. If I had to describe this extra fatty pork, it would be "foie gras pork". This is why I love Noodle Bar. There’s a ton of stuff on that menu that just kicks ass, but they get some great ingredients in and take it to a new level of kick assetude.
Speaking of Great Ingredients, Mangalitsa Pork, and Kick Assetude…
The Chef’s Garden has it monthly Earth to Table dinner featuring Mosefund Mangalitsa Pork. While the pork itself is not impossible to find, the challenge is what to actually do with it. Since the fat is such a large part of the attraction (a chop appears to be half fat, half meat) a conventional recipe might not do the pork justice. I’m excited to see what Chef James Briscone (winner of Food Network’s Chopped) has planned for the evening. The on-the-fly nature of the show has me eagerly awaiting Briscone’s creations that result from the unique selection of vegetables and pork. As of a few weeks ago the dinner was already half full. If you’re interested in going you can get more information here.
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