'Stino da Napoli

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My wife and I have a mutual admiration for many things food related, one thing we don’t agree on is a love for eggplant. She loves it. I detest it.

She’s constantly in search of the latest and greatest preparations whether it’s Antonio’s Eggplant Stack in Parma, Allegro Grille's Eggplant whatever in Philadelphia, or the Eggplant sandwich at Primo’s Hoagies, (found all over SE Pennsylvania and South Jersey). For her, happiness is finding a new eggplant dish to place into the Eggplant Pantheon.

Food favorites are the stuff road trips are made of. We didn’t really have to travel all that far, (from east side to west) but it isn’t exactly around the corner. On Friday night we went to ‘Stino da Napoli in Rocky River, for dinner. Friday wasn’t just any night; it was the only night they serve the eggplant special. As far as food favorites go, eggplant is a top five food favorite for Regina.

‘Stino (short for Augustino) da Napoli is nestled in the same cozy little strip as one our favorites – Tartine Bistro. The front door opens in the central portion of the restaurant with the kitchen directly behind the hostess stand. This central area (where they also process take-out orders) is flanked on both sides by dining rooms. The décor itself is fairly minimal without being too stark. The tables are fairly close together, so if you have a loud neighbor there is the possibility that you will hear every word they have to say. (We had the fortune of having such a party and now we know their opinion on what the Cavs’ chances are of keeping LeBron James.)

Since we had someplace to go afterward we knew this was going to be a quick dinner for us. As the entrees were being delivered to the surrounding tables, we realized the portions were fairly sizable. For this dinner we decided just to stick with entrees. Regina went with the Friday Special Eggplant Parmigiana, which consisted of baked eggplant slices with light tomato sauce, parmigiano and fresh mozzarella cheese ($13.50). She thought it was good, but in Stino’s defense there is a particular kind of eggplant dish with minimal breading and very thin slices that she tends lean toward. This particular eggplant is a very traditional preparation (a tad bit more breading with thicker slices) that draws rave reviews from all over the city.

I opted for the Spaghetti Al Fumo Del Vesuvio, (a traditional Neopolitan tomato sauce with smoked bacon, onion, and fresh cream). I thought I’d be feeling the bacon a little more, but it wasn’t meant to be. This was definitely a case of my eyes reading the description and ignoring what my stomach likes.

If I had one regret, it's that we didn't have time for dessert. As we ate dinner these wonderful lemony looking desserts were staring right at me as they were escorted to their awaiting suitors.

Italian is many things to many people. ‘Stino da Napoli, I think, falls into traditional Italian group. The entrees are certainly in the affordable range; most, if not all, of the entrees fall in the under $20 price point. This little restaurant is much loved by the surrounding area. When we went to leave there were a number of people waiting to be seated. ‘Stino da Napoli offers good food at a good price.

'Stino da Napoli
19070 Old Detroit Rd
Rocky River, OH 44116
(440) 331-3944
www.stinodanapoli.com

In Defense of the Food Truck

This is a letter to the City of Cleveland in support of Christopher Hodgson and Jeremy Esterly in their quest to (I assume) allow food trucks the ability to park on the street. As I understand that under current rules they are sequestered to only private property.

To Whom It May Concern:

I am writing to you in regards to the notable absence of food trucks here in Cleveland. Over the last ten years we have seen the culinary landscape bloom into what can only be described as one of the best cities in the Midwest to enjoy great food. We really are blessed to have such a great collection of independently owned restaurants.

If you go to any of the truly great food cities across the country there is one common denominator – the presence of food trucks. When going to places like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Portland, and even smaller cities like New Haven, CT; you will notice they all have a large presence of food trucks.

Why do people love these mobile kitchens so much?

1. You can go to the food, or the food can come to you. If I live in Shaker Heights that truck might be in University Circle a couple days out of the week. This is much closer than if say it was a free standing restaurant in Westlake. When it coincides with other local happenings such as the Cleveland Film Festival, sporting events, or concerts it makes for a great night out.

2. It expresses the local tastes of the city. The city of Los Angeles has numerous Mexican inspired trucks which showcase the city’s proximity to, and appreciation for, Mexico and the food of its people. What would Cleveland’s be? Well, the only truck I know of in Cleveland (Seti’s Polish Boys) has managed to make it on the Food Network’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate”. People come to cities seeking these things out because they are so unique. The hot dog carts that are downtown do not reflect anything about Cleveland. You can plop that cart down in any city across the country and it’s still just a hot dog cart.

3. They’re an affordable luxury. These are hard economic times in Cleveland. Not everyone can afford to eat at the nice restaurants. The items sold from a truck represent the same thoughtfulness and craftsmanship you would get at a restaurant, but at a fraction of the price. It can even be as simple as a $3 snack in the middle of the afternoon. Even though budgets are tight, there is a joy that comes from taking a walk with a coworker and sharing something as simple as a quick sandwich.

4. Much cheaper to open than a restaurant. Most sous chefs and line cooks dream of one day opening their own restaurant someday. The dream however requires massive investment in kitchens, dining rooms, equipment, etc. A food truck allows for a much leaner operation. This creates an opportunity for people that otherwise could not afford to finance an entire restaurant.

5. The possibilities are much greater in a truck than a cart. In defense of the hot dog carts, this is Cleveland; the elements don’t allow for much creativity when you’re being blown around by wind, rain, snow, and cold air. A truck allows an owner to shelter themselves and the food from the elements. I’ve been to trucks in New York City who are perfectly comfortable in the middle of December. They can also have a variety of different foods without worrying about limiting themselves to what they can fit in a food cart.

6. It adds to the pedestrian experience. This adds instant buzz to the area immediately around the truck. This is the kind of thing that piques people’s curiosity. They can easily see a truck. If there is a line of people waiting next to it then they really get curious. (They might just drive by and decide to park their car to see what all the commotion is about.) With the viral nature of social networking sites such as Twitter and Facebook, trucks are able to generate buzz around the city just by announcing where they’re going to be that day. If orchestrated to coincide with a local event it offers a symbiosis for both the truck and the event.

I’ve seen enough of these things work successfully to know that this is an idea that would be absolutely huge in a town with a hankering for good food at good prices. There is no doubt in my mind that if allowed on the streets of Cleveland many more would follow. With startup costs that are a fraction of what a medium to high end restaurant, there is no doubt in my mind that the talent in our city’s kitchens would soon follow. Take care in your consideration – the city’s kitchens are watching.

Regards,

Dineomite

Lent, Legends, Ass, Heat, and Mangalitsa

I think the thing I like most about Lent is that for one day of the week it makes you do something out of the ordinary. When Friday comes I usually find myself considering parts of the menu I don’t normally look at. I’m a sucker for meat and I admit it. Going to a fish fry just does not excite me in the least. Ask most people what a memorable night out is, and I’m sure a trip to the local “chippy” isn’t going be near the top of the list.

Tonight I hit up Battiste & Dupree in South Euclid. The crawfish etouffee is absolute money. If you haven’t been here you’ve got to try it. Junior Battiste is a no nonsense former military man who cranks out the most authentic Cajun fare in the city. The kitchen (which you can see from the counter) is SPOTLESS. I usually order carry-out, typically calling a half an hour before I want to pick it up. While waiting for my order a lady told me her son will only eat Junior's fried chicken. My interest is now piqued. I now have to go back for the fried chicken. This place is a hidden gem.

Speaking of Lenten options…
I spent this last week out on the east coast. After taking the ferry from Port Jefferson, LI to Bridgeport, CT I decided to take the short drive up to New Haven and pay Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria a visit. Held in high esteem by the pizza man himself (Ed Levine) I had to try their signature pizza that has white sauce and freshly shucked clams. I was totally blown away by how good this pie was. The white sauce plays in the background as you enjoy the brininess of the clams coated with Parmesan and herbs. (I spent the next night in Yonkers where an outpost has opened and I can safely say that the more conventional pie with pepperoni, sausage, and mozzarella is worth a trip, as well.)

Speaking of Legends…
There are times that these well publicized places meet the lofty expectations set by the broadcast media as well as print and the internet. I stopped at Rutt’s Hut in Clifton, NJ and I can assure you that had the expectation been set at “above average” it would have been a disappointment, (even if they did come with a delicious sweet relish). They serve hot dogs that are in the deep fryer so long that they split (hence the name “rippers”). The dining room is dirty, service sucked, and hot the dogs tasted like ass.

Speaking of Ass…
Looking for dessert, I took mine down to the Waffle & Dinges truck after I saw the insane crowd inside of Milk Bar. If you’ve never had a liege waffle you don’t know what you’re missing. These are not the typical waffles made from a bowl of runny batter. The liege waffle is actually made with a dough that has pearl sugar in it. When the heavy European irons hit a specific temperature the sugar is transformed into a crispy caramelized coating on the waffle. Delicious. Top one of these suckers with Speculoos, a lighter version of peanut putter with hints of cinnamon and caramel, and you have an awesome dessert for about $5. With the relative heat wave that was in full swing that night, the East Village alive with foot traffic. There’s something about the first real break in the weather that seems to make for an exciting night out.

Speaking Heat…
Ever since I read Bill Buford’s Heat I’ve wanted to learn how to break down a whole hog. Last night while I was taking a piss at the Greenhouse Tavern I saw an advert on the wall offering a hog butchering class. I went upstairs and signed up for that, (right after I washed my hands). Considering the Mosefund Mangalitsa Pigstock 2010 teaching seam butchery would have set me back 7 and a half bills (this is on my list of things to see), GHT’s conventional butchery class is a relative bargain at just one.

Speaking of Mangalitsa…
I met some friends of mine at Momofuku Noodle Bar for dinner. I was gobsmacked when they told me the dinner special for the night – Mangalitsa pork short rib on a bed of mustard tossed cabbage. If I had to describe this extra fatty pork, it would be "foie gras pork". This is why I love Noodle Bar. There’s a ton of stuff on that menu that just kicks ass, but they get some great ingredients in and take it to a new level of kick assetude.

Speaking of Great Ingredients, Mangalitsa Pork, and Kick Assetude…
The Chef’s Garden has it monthly Earth to Table dinner featuring Mosefund Mangalitsa Pork. While the pork itself is not impossible to find, the challenge is what to actually do with it. Since the fat is such a large part of the attraction (a chop appears to be half fat, half meat) a conventional recipe might not do the pork justice. I’m excited to see what Chef James Briscone (winner of Food Network’s Chopped) has planned for the evening. The on-the-fly nature of the show has me eagerly awaiting Briscone’s creations that result from the unique selection of vegetables and pork. As of a few weeks ago the dinner was already half full. If you’re interested in going you can get more information here.

Macky's Kahuku Sweet Shrimp Truck

Make sure to check here for more Hawai'i posts!

If you head east along the North Shore of Oahu you’ll find number of shrimp farms. It was from these farms that famed shrimp trucks of Oahu were spawned. There are still stands that actually sell shrimp right in front of the farms. The trucks, however, have been mobilized throughout the island to sell their bounty.

We decided on Mackey’s Kahuku Sweet Shrimp Truck because of the proximity to where we were staying and some of the recommendations from Chowhound. Since we were going to Alan Wong’s that night I wanted to make sure I cleared plenty of stomach room for the evening’s feast. (I had lunch at Grass Skirt Grill before our last Alan Wong’s dinner and wasn’t even hungry at 7.) The shrimp truck would be the perfect solution to my dinner dilemma as long as I didn’t finish the rice.

Da Truck

As we pulled into the parking lot where Mackey’s is parked I noticed a stretch limousine pulling in. If you’re familiar with the limousines then you know where I’m going with this. Japanese tourists pile into stretch limos and stop at various tourist destinations. It seems kind of strange when you first see it, but I guess it makes sense once you realize most probably can’t read the street signs. You’ll see a group roll out of the car, snap pictures of Banzai Pipeline, and then climb back in until they get the next tourist spot. It’s just kind of funny that it’s a stretch limo bumping around these famous surf spots.

So I hurried up, slammed the car in park, and hopped into the line at Macky’s before the limo could find a spot. (Nothing sucks worse than getting stuck behind a group of ten people.) The operation itself is very efficient; the only have five different plates along with smoothies, fruit plates, and Kuhuku corn (which I wasn’t aware of).

Butter Garlic Plate

I opted for the Butter Garlic Shrimp Plate (there’s also Coconut Shrimp, Lemon Pepper, Spicy Hot, and Original). With the plate I got, I’d say there were about 8 shrimp, two pieces of pineapple, a couple scoops, and a small salad for $12. I thought the shrimp and the pineapple were good. I could have done without the rest of the stuff. Looking back I wish I had gotten Spicy Hot Shrimp plate just because I’m a sucker for all things spicy.

Macky’s is actually a great way to enjoy the beautiful setting in Hale’iwa. They’ve set up a few tables complete with tents, an outdoor sink, and facilities. Everything is cooked fresh. It isn’t like there’s a heat lamp that this stuff is sitting under.

Maybe they can serve chicken, too.

Macky's Kahuku Sweet Shrimp Truck
66-632 Kamehameha Hwy
Haleiwa, HI 96712
(808) 780-1071
www.mackyshrimptruck.com/default.aspx

Haleiwa Eats

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Hale’iwa (hah lay EE vuh) is my favorite spot on the planet. For me this sleepy little town sums up the Hawaiian experience. Sandwiched between what is known as Da Country and the infamous surf of The North Shore, this old plantation town offers up the largest collection of stores and restaurants on this side of Oahu. Without crossing the central mountains of the island, the short stretch of muddy Kamehameha Highway represents the best collection of restaurants.

When we had driven through town earlier in the day we noticed a little Thai place called Haleiwa Eats. I can’t say for sure how long it had been there but we didn’t remember it being the year before. Still feeling pretty full from our visit to Matsugen, we figured we’d order a few things and how it was.

Housed in one of the M Yoshida buildings circa 1923, Haleiwa Eats sits a couple doors down from the famed Matsumoto Shave Ice. The interior was decorated with a tasteful blend of Thai and Hawaiian charm. The strings of small lights added whimsy to what I can only to describe comfortable setting. This worth noting as the buildings themselves are somewhat unforgiving as it relates to comfort and acoustics.

I’ve been to plenty of well decorated restaurants to realize that you only score so many points for appearances, but Haleiwa Eats backs up its first impression with good solid food. We took the easy way out and ordered the summer rolls for appetizer ($5). They were good (they are alas summer rolls). For her entrée Regina opted for the Monsoon Shrimp ($17, sautéed shrimp Thai garlic shrimp served over cucumber and tomato with a side of rice). Looking at the picture I’m guessing Regina requested the peanut sauce.

Monsoon Shrimp

I was very intrigued by the Siam Beef Platter ($15, beef with chili basil sauce w/ string beans, zucchini, and onions). I loved the beef. I actually knew I’d love the beef, but the surprise was the veggies that came with it. The inclusion of the green beans had thrown me off a little bit but I thought they were actually really good with the crunch of the peanuts.

Siam Beef Platter

We love the isolation of The North Shore, but it makes it so much better knowing that there is an affordable option, by Hawaiian standards, so close to where we were staying. In the end the bill was less than $50. It’s a great place to try if you’re in this neck of the woods and licking your wounds from a high priced Honolulu dinner.

Haleiwa Eats
66-079 Kamehameha Hwy
Haleiwa, HI 96712
(808) 637-4247
http://haleiwaeatsthai.com/

Matsugen

A couple of years ago I read a fairly in depth article about how soba noodles are made in Japan. Like seemingly everything in that country, there seems to be a very long drawn out apprenticeship, followed by a lifetime of perfecting a craft. Is this a case of someone making a mountain out of a molehill? A noodle, is a noodle, is a noodle, right? Or so I thought.

We arrived in Honolulu just in time for lunch. With Regina’s penchant for all things Japanese and my fascination with the handmade, we made a beeline for Matsugen near Waikiki. I was warned this was going to be Japanese Japanese. Oh really? What exactly is “Japanese Japanese”? Is there a difference between that and regular old Japanese? I was intrigued and a little scared at the same time.

The Soba Station

As we walked into the restaurant I noticed that, like most things Japanese, it was very small. The main dining area was to your left with lacquered tabletops, simple place settings, and minimalist décor. The room was well lit, with a glassed-in work station surrounded by a bar and stools. Every morning they make fresh soba noodles by hand. While I wanted to see them actually make the noodles, the day’s noodles had already been made.

I decided to go with the cold soba noodles with “goma-dare” sesame sauce. In the past I’ve had these noodles where they are so horribly bad I couldn’t even eat half of the bowl. The buckwheat in the noodles can be gritty and overpowering in taste. I could have easily eaten two bowls of these silken artistic beauties.

Regina ordered the Butterfish and avocado tempura. The perfectly cooked butter fish came apart in perfect flavorful bite sized slabs. Our chopsticks slowly reduced the fish down to an empty plate with a spent lemon rind. High marks for this dish. The creaminess of the avocado was counterbalanced by the light tempura crunch.

Butterfish

The menu had a number of interesting options and it’s clear from the patrons that this place is popular. Our biggest obstacle was a lack of exposure and understanding of the Japanese items on the menu. My wife scribbled down many of the dishes she wasn’t familiar with. Next time she plans to do some research ahead of time, so that we can make informed decisions. The food is very well crafted and is worth at least a lunch if you find yourself on the edge of Waikiki Beach.

Matsugen
255 Beach Walk
Honolulu, HI 96815
(808) 926-0255

The Last Vegetable Dish

I was reading an article on Roger Ebert’s struggle with cancer of the jaw. After being diagnosed with the disease a few years ago his course of treatment led to the eventual removal of his lower jaw bone. Ebert has not been able to speak, drink, or eat solid food since operation.

I can’t imagine how lonely it must feel to not be able share dinner with family and friends, let alone not be able to speak. For me dinner is a major highlight of my day. While I enjoy great food, I find that even good or mediocre food is made so much better with great conversation and laughter. Hell, if you give me good enough drink I’ll spend the night laughing with friends and making fun of bad food. While I think one can be good independent of the other, when you get both it can be so much fun.

In the article they ask Mr. Ebert what his last meal was; after thinking for a little while he said he really didn’t remember. I can imagine the amount of pain in his jaw limited him considerably in what he could eat. As a food fanatic I think I can safely say that if it were me I would be (to use a Jersey Shore reference), creepin’ on the most memorable dish I was able to comfortably consume.

I can say that any last meal for me would have to include the Pea Soup with Parmesan Foam from Jean Georges. My memory of the whole thing is pretty vivid even to this day. (I won’t bore you with the details but if you really want to read about the best lunch in New York City read here.) When you taste a dish like this, it’s a sensory experience that seems to indelibly burn itself on your memory forever.

Chef's Garden Carrots

The folks at The Culinary Vegetable Institute have generously offered two seats at this Saturday’s February Earth to Table Dinner with Beej Flamholz and Erica Wides, valued at $55 a person. If you haven’t been to the CVI you’re in for a real treat (see here). What do you have to do to win these prized seats? In the comment section I want you to tell me what your favorite vegetable dish from a restaurant is. Unless your grandmother or mother owns a restaurant, I don’t want to here about it. Hopefully the restaurant is still open so we can all sample it for ourselves, but if it’s not that’s okay, too. The winner will be picked randomly on Wednesday night (giving you enough time to line up a babysitter). Good Luck!

Make sure you check out next month's Mangalitsa Pork dinner. Half of the tables are already sold for what will surely be a steel cage match between a very rare breed of pig and equally high end Chef's Garden vegetable.

Maple Budino

Maple Budino with Sea Salt and Almond Tuile

My wife made a special Valentine's Day request for Karen DeMasco's Maple Budino from Locanda Verde (a very thorough review from Bite Buff here). Buried in my nearly one hundred unfinished posts is my review of this restaurant in NYC that is cranking out some awesome food (by not one, but two James Beard award winning native Clevelanders chef Andrew Carmellini and pastry chef Karen DeMasco). Ironically enough, I also making the pork chops from Carmellini's recipe in The Niman Ranch Cookbook, for dinner (recipe here).

So here it is Valentine's Day and I've already been given my marching orders on the Maple Budino . It seemed like fate when I opened up the Plain Dealer I saw an article on Cleveland native. In the article the dessert is actually referenced. How crazy is that?

This isn't just a plate of pudding. The New York Times' Sam Sifton voted this sterling dessert as one of his "eleven most memorable dishes of 2009".One would think that making a dessert as good as this would have a certain amount of difficulty, but this is about as easy as it gets. You can make them a couple of days in advance without fear of any degradation. While the original at the restaurant comes with candied pecans, I opted to sprinkle a little Hawaiian sea salt on top and add an almond tuile. My wife's friend described it as french toast without the bread.

This recipe is not from Karen's new cookbook Craft of Baking, but I highly recommend checking it out. Many of her recipes encourage the reader to freestyle and create their own twist on the recipe.

Maple Budino by Karen DeMasco
(makes 6 servings)

• 1 cup maple syrup (preferably grade B)
• 4 cups heavy cream
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 large egg
• 7 large egg yolks
• 1/3 cup dark brown sugar

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Fill a kettle with water and place over high heat to bring to a boil. In a 4 to 6 quart saucepan, bring maple syrup to a boil and cook over medium heat until thickened and reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in cream, salt and vanilla.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg, yolks and brown sugar. Add about a third of the cream mixture, and whisk to blend. Pour into remaining cream mixture and whisk until well blended. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Divide evenly among six 8-ounce ramekins, and place in a deep metal baking or roasting pan (using a glass or ceramic pan may increase baking time). Carefully add enough boiling water to pan to come halfway up sides of ramekins. Cover pan securely with foil to seal it closed.

3. Bake for 20 minutes, then rotate pan, release steam by lifting foil cover and replace foil securely. Continue baking — rotating pan, releasing steam and re-covering every 15 to 20 minutes — until custards are completely set around edges and slightly loose in centers, about an hour more.

4. Remove pan from oven, remove foil and allow custards to come to room temperature in water bath. Remove from pan, cover each custard with plastic wrap (not touching surface) or a small plate and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days before serving.

Almond Tuile by Johnny Iuzzini from Dessert Fourplay

• 4 teaspoon (22g) water
• generous tablespoon (22g) honey
• 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (37g) unsalted butter
• scant 1/2 cup (75g) confectioners' sugar
• 2 Tablespoons (15g) all-purpose flour
• 5-1/2 ounces (150g) sliced almonds, chopped

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees F or 325 degrees F on convection. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat or use a nonstick baking sheet.
2. Put the water, honey, and butter in a small saucepan and cook over low heat until the butter is melted.
3. Whisk the confectioners' sugar and flour together. Pour in the wet ingredients and stir until smooth. Stir in the nuts.
4. Use a small ice cream scoop (1-tablespoon capacity) to scoop up 1 tablespoon of the batter. Level off the top and drop onto the Silpat, leaving about 2 inches between each tuile (you should fit 6 on the baking sheet). Bake in batches until golden, about 14 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Let cool completely on the Silpat.
   

Crawfish Étouffeé

Hey, I thought we were friends!

When I worked at Muirfield Village Golf Club, there was a creek in front of the third green that had flooded after a heavy rainfall. As a couple of coworkers cleaned silt off of the green there was a call over the radio stating that there was a live scorpion on the green. Needless to say, they don't have scorpions in Columbus, OH, but they do have, what we call crayfish, though not as large (or plentiful) as those down in Louisiana.

Imagine how stoked I was when I got an email from Bay Lobsters announcing a shipment of live crawfish. Since I live in Ohio, any étouffeé I've ever had has been made with shrimp. So I was very excited to get my hands and these little guys, since it isn't something that you can just drive down to the grocery store and buy. While Bay Lobsters does carry the frozen already peeled crawfish tails, everything I've ever read on the subject says that the live critters are the only way to go.

As I drove back home with my 2 1/2 pounds worth of my temporary pets, I could hear them "clacking" away on the floor of the car (in a bag). I have to say that I was dreading the idea of boiling these lively little guys. It was going to be murder on a grand scale. As I heated up the water the crawfish kept climbing out of the bowl and falling onto the floor. While unpleasant at first, the boiling of the mud bugs wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

I used John Besh's My New Orleans for the recipe. I think the cool thing about this book is that Besh gives a lot of the building blocks of the New Orleans favorites while also offering some recipes from his French culinary background. There is a lot of nuanced information that you don't seem to get with some of the traditional books.This recipe calls for an entire pound of crawfish tails, but he also has a franco-centric dish that calls for just ten tails. I haven't cooked out of this book that much because it isn't very seasonal for this time of year, but when the strawberries come out this thing will be getting a work out.

The étouffeé was very good, especially the next day. I don't know what it was, but when I do it again I will definitely make it the day before. The spice (which is present but restrained), seems to incorporate itself into the tail meat when it sits overnight. Biting into one of these tails doesn't dispense an immediate and overpowering spice, but a slow crescendo that seems to sneak up on your tongue after you've swallowed the bite. When I ate right after making it, there seemed to be two separate flavors: tail meat and then the other stuff. If you make it let me know which way you prefer it.

Chicken Stock
¼ cup canola oil
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 leek, white part, coarsely chopped
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 pound roasted chicken bones and carcasses (Substitute 1 pound of shells from shrimp, blue crab, crawfish, or lobster for Shellfish Stock)
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1. Heat the canola oil in a large pot over moderate heat. Cook the onions, celery, carrots, leeks, and garlic, stirring often, until they are soft but not brown, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the shells, the bay leaf, thyme, peppercorns, and 3 quarts water. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low and gently simmer, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, until the stock has reduced by half, about 2 hours.

3. Strain through a fine sieve into a container with a cover. Allow the stock to cool, cover and refrigerate, then skim off the fat. Freeze the stock in batches to use later.

Besh suggests putting the stock in an ice cup tray

Basic Louisiana White Rice (Makes about 4 cups)
1 tablespoon chicken fat, extra-virgin olive oil, or butter
1 small onion, minced
1-1/2 cups Louisiana long-grain white rice
3 cups Basic Chicken Stock (see above recipe)
1 bay leaf
1-2 pinches salt

1. Put the fat, oil, or butter and the onions into a medium saucepan and sweat the onions over moderate heat until they are translucent, about 5 minutes. Pour the rice into the pan and stir for 2 minutes. Then add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the bay leaf and salt.

2. Cover the pan with a lid, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 18 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, fluff the rice with a fork, and serve.

Crawfish Étouffeé with Louisiana White Rice

Crawfish Étouffeé (serves 6)
3 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons flour
1 small onion, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
Half a red bell pepper, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
Leaves from two sprigs of fresh thyme
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 quart Basic Shellfish Stock (see above recipe)
3 tablespoons butter
1 pound peeled crawfish tails (from 2 ½ pounds live)
2 green onions, chopped
2 dashes Worchestershire
2 dashes Tabasco Salt Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups cooked Basic Louisiana Rice (see above recipe)

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Whisk the flour into the very hot oil. It will immediately begin to sizzle and fizz. Keep whisking and reduce the heat to moderate. Continue whisking until the roux takes on a gorgeous dark brown color, about 15 minutes. *I don’t know if I screwed something up but mine only took about half that time* Add the onions, reduce the heat, and cook until the onions caramelize. If you add all the vegetables at the same time, the water that results will boil the onions and their sugars won’t caramelize.

2. When the onions have turned the roux shiny and dark, add the celery, bell peppers, garlic, thyme, cayenne, and paprika. Cook for 5 minutes. Now add the tomatoes and the Shellfish Stock and increase the heat to high.

3. Once the sauce has come to a boil, reduce the heat to moderate and let simmer 5-7 minutes, stirring often. Be careful not to let it burn or stick to the bottom of the pan.

4. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the butter. Add the crawfish tails and green onions. Season with Worcestershire, Tabasco, salt, and black pepper. Once the crawfish tails have heated through, remove the saucepan from the heat.

5. Serve in individual bowl over rice.

CVI Earth to Table Dinner with Craig Deihl

A few weeks ago I received an invitation from the folks at Culinary Vegetable Institute to attend their January “Earth to Table” dinner featuring Chef Craig Deihl (as in “The Real Deihl” of Cypress Lowcountry Grille, in Charleston, SC. If you read this blog with any regularity then you’re probably well aware of my affection for southern food.

Since I was allowed to bring a guest, and my wife was unavailable, I brought Stuart Spivack along (both dinners were graciously provided by CVI). From the east side of Cleveland, it takes about an hour or so to make it out to the compound.

The Culinary Vegetable Institute is an impressive place in its own right. The 11,000 sq ft facility houses an incredible two story kitchen (it even has an Anti-Griddle), a dining room with 22’ ceilings and a lodge-like atmosphere (seats 90), accommodations for visiting chefs and their teams, a culinary library, a root cellar, and a wine cellar. Just outside the impressive structure are experimental vegetable, forest, and herb gardens. (I’m not sure what a forest garden is, but I’ll make sure I ask the next time I’m there.) In all honesty, this is probably the most impressive thing I’ve seen since I was at Stonebarns, in Pocantico Hills, NY. (If you’re ever in the NYC area anytime other than winter, it’s a must see.)

As we walked into the CVI, were immediately greeted by both Lee and Mary Jones. Once we checked in they encouraged us to take a look at what was going on in the kitchen. I’m guessing I made three or four steps before it hit me – a pungent smell of cured meat. People were painstakingly loading up a table covered with plates filled with charcuterie that had been brought up from their own “Salami Room” which I’m assuming is at Cypress. (Video of Chef Diehl and his sous chef making salami, here.)


Here are my highlights for the dinner:

Candied Lamb Bacon with gnocchi
For me this was a serious punch of flavor to start the dinner. This was actually my favorite item of the night. This was salty and sweet at its finest. Stuart said that Doug Katz at Fire used to have this on the menu. In talking to Chef Deihl, this is just a throw away cut of meat. It's one thing to do something with nothing, but do this with nothing was just awesome. I absolutely loved this dish.


Ice Spinach with Maytag blue cheese
Ice spinach? What's ice spinach? It's actually a patented Chef's Garden process that is very similar to that of ice wine. While I didn't eat enough of it to be able to say exactly what it was that made it so different, I can say that the dressing, blue cheese, and spinach epitomized the word harmony. Deihl will be getting a recipe request from me, and The Chef's Garden can count on a call about a more detailed explanation on this curious process. (I smell a future post.)


Cumin and Orange with Pecorino Tortufo
There wasn't anything outrageously clever about this dish; it just tasted really, really good. You know a vegetable dish is good when people have their eye on what's left in the carrot bowl, with a plate of short ribs and chuck still sitting on the table. I singled this one out, but believe me when I say every single one of the vegetable bowls left the table empty.


Chocolate Beet Brownie with Homemade Ice Cream, Candied Ginger Jam
Chef Deihl actually used something like five pounds of beets as the "sugar" in the brownie batter. A little skeptical at first, I was pleasantly surprised that the beets hadn't been totally masked by the chocolate. When you bit into the brownie you could feel small bits of beets in your mouth. I thought this was a very creative way to incorporate a vegetable. (Also pictured is the Goat Cheesecake with Lemon-Fennel Confit and Anise Hyssop.)


I can’t tell you enough how much I enjoyed this dinner. What made it such a special event was that the chef did such job of putting his signature on the each and every dish, while not overshadowing the tremendous quality of the Chef's Garden vegetables. If the drive out to CVI is discouraging you, just know that at the end of that trek awaits a very special dinner.

For information on upcoming dinners, click here. I have already booked our spot at the Mosefund Mangalitsa dinner on March 27 with Chopped winner Chef James Briscionne.

Earth to Table Dinner with Chef Craig Deihl complete menu:

Appetizers

• Chef's Garden Ice Root Spinach Salad with House Smoked Bacon, Maytag Blue Cheese
• House Cured Salami, Mixed Root Vegetable Salad
• Ricotta Gnocchi, Tomato-Mint Jam, Candied Lamb Bacon
• Ham and Bean Soup with Mixed Winter Kale

Entrees

• Duo of Certified Angus Natural Chuck Eye and Braised Short Ribs

Chef's Garden Vegetables

• Cumin and Orange Glazed Carrots
• Sweet Potato Gratin with Glazed Carrots
• Sweet Potato Gratin with Pecorino Tortufo
• Confit Potatoes
• Celery Root Infused Anson Mills Grits
• Braised Collard Greens

Desserts

• Goat Cheesecake with Lemon-Fennel Confit, Anise Hyssop
• Chocolate Beet Brownie with Homemade Ice Cream, Candied Ginger Jam