Nantes Carrot Stew

What is it about getting your hands on some really good produce that makes you want to look extra hard for a good recipe? In the past we’ve gotten the Chef’s Garden Family Box and been really impressed with what was sent to us. Because the boxes vary from shipment to shipment, you’re never quite sure what’s inside until you open them. In a recent box we received some rather large carrots that required some breaking down into smaller chunks. The hunt was on for something that cooked utilize carrots in “chunky” form, but more importantly was really tasty.
Not to sound like a broken record here, but the Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc at Home has some monstrously delicious recipes in it. I’ve done a number of his creations in the past and with the exception of one, they’ve all been above average in the visual appeal and taste categories.

For these carrots I chose the Nantes Carrot Stew recipe. The recipe is actually very easy to execute and one of the quicker ones from the book. One of the things I really like is that you can make it the day before and finish the last step right before you serve it. This would be great for a dinner party where you’re already stretched for time.

The Nantes Carrot Stew has definitely been added to my list of “go to” vegetable sides.

Nantes Carrot Stew

Nantes Carrot Stew
By Thomas Keller, Ad Hoc at Home

• 2 pounds sweet carrots, preferably Nantes
• 1 tspn coriander seeds
• 1 tspn caraway seeds
• 4-6 Tbsp (2-3 ounces) unsalted butter
• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbsp dry sherry or Madeira
• 1 cup fresh carrot juice
• Large pinch of Yellow Curry Powder or Madras curry powder

1. Peel the carrots and cut them into oblique shapes.

2. Make a sachet of the coriander and caraway seeds by wrapping them in a piece of cheesecloth and tying it with kitchen twine.

3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrots, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until the carrots begin to give off their juices, about 7 minutes. Lower the heat as necessary to keep the carrots from browning. Add the sherry and cook for 2 minutes. Add the carrot juice, curry powder, and sachet and, and cook, swirling the pan, for 2 more minutes, or until the carrots are just tender. (The carrots can be cooled and refrigerated in the liquid overnight.) With a slotted spoon, transfer the carrots to a bowl. Discard the sachet.

4. Simmer the carrot juice until reduced to a light glaze. Whisk in the remaining 2 to 4 tablespoons of butter, depending on your preference, 1 tablespoon at a time. Season to taste with salt, add the carrots, and swirl to glaze the carrots. Transfer to a serving bowl.

Serves 6

Asparagus Coins

In the next week or so asparagus should be making its grand entrance at most of the farmers markets here in northeast Ohio. Since we try to buy most of our vegetables from local producers we typically find ourselves scrambling to find good recipes as things come into season. On the whole, I think we’re actually ahead of the game a little bit since we have a couple of seasons under our belt. Always looking to add to the arsenal, this little recipe from Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc is about as easy as they come.

I think on the whole the recipe is pretty good; it certainly has plenty of room for free styling if you so choose. I like the fact that there are roughly five ingredients that aren’t oil, salt, pepper, or water. Nothing sucks worse than skipping the mis en place and finding that you don’t have enough of something, (five ingredients make it that much easier to do). Note that the Chive Oil needs to be made the day before. I tried the mandolin on these suckers and found it a little difficult. (I am terrified of shaving off the top of my knuckles.) Make sure you get rid of the toughest parts of the asparagus. If you get thicker pieces they don’t cook up very well. Make sure your asparagus are thin pencil like stalks.

Asparagus Coins

Asparagus Coins
By Thomas Keller Ad Hoc

Chive Oil
1 cup ½ inch pieces chives
1 cup canola oil

Put the chives in a fine mesh basket strainer and run under hot tap water to soften them and remove any chlorophyll taste. Drain them and squeeze as dry as possible.

Put half the chives in a Vita-Mix, add oil just to cover, and blend for 2 minutes. Add half the remaining chives and oil to cover and blend for another 2 minutes. Add the remaining chives and oil and blend for another 2 minutes. Pour into a container and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Place a piece of cheesecloth over a bowl and secure with a rubber band to make a smooth, tight surface. Pour the chive oil onto the cheesecloth and let sit for an hour to allow the oil to drip through.

Remove and discard the cheesecloth; do not wring out the cheesecloth, or it may cloud the oil. Refrigerate the oil in a covered container for 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month.
Makes about ½ cup

Parsley Water
6 Tbs water
1 tsp canola oil
1 Tbs honey
3 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems, washed and patted thoroughly dry

Pour the water into a small bowl and freeze until the water is ice-cold.

Heat a medium frying pan over medium-high heat until hot. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the honey and heat to melt and lightly caramelize it for a few seconds. Add the parsley with the honey and wilt it, about 30 seconds. Transfer the contents of the pan to the ice-cold water to chill the parsley leaves.

Transfer the parsley and liquid to a Vita-Mix and blend until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh basket strainer into a storage container. The parsley water can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month.
Makes a scant ½ cup

Asparagus Coins
1 ½ lbs. pencil-thin asparagus
3 Tbs chive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup Parsley Water

Divide the asparagus in half and bundle each with a rubber band. Snap off the bottom of 1 stalk of asparagus to see where it breaks naturally. Cut across the bunches to trim all of the spears to the same length.

Slice on a Japanese mandolin. Alternatively, you can slice the asparagus with a sharp chef’s knife.

Put the tips in a large frying pan, add the chive oil, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat, swirling the ingredients together, until the tips are coated with oil and begin to sizzle, 1 ½ - 2 minutes. Add the asparagus rounds and cook until the edges look cooked but the centers are still raw. Add 3 tablespoons of the parsley water, stir to coat, and cook until the asparagus is tender, 1 ½ - 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining parsley water, and stir to coat.
Serves 6

Mustard and Mayonnaise Glazed Asparagus

This time of year, at least in Ohio, there is a limit as to what can be had from the local farmer's market. I think it's kind of nice that gradually more and more comes to harvest, as opposed to having everything coming at you all at once. In a sense it prevents you from gravitating toward your favorite produce.

When the June Food + Wine arrived last week, I saw a couple of recipes for using mayo in marinades on asparagus. Written by Nate Appleman of A16 in SF, he says these can also be used on broccoli and fennel. Anytime I can pick up a recipe that translates into more than one veggie, I'll try it at least once.

I picked up some thick stalks of asparagus from Muddy Fork Farm at the Shaker Square North Union Farmer's Market. I feel the thick stalks work better for grilling because there's still a substantial amount of asparagus left once you're done peeling them. I also think the thicker pieces are easier to maneuver on the grill (thin ones can fall through the grate, doh!).

This is an absolute killer recipe. I wasn't quite sure how well it was going to turn out, but the spears maintain a crispness to them that is really appealing. The marinade is present but not at all overpowering. Combine all of that with the charring from the grill and you've got one fantastic side dish.

You can print the recipe out here. There is also a companion recipe for Smoky Glazed Asparagus here, although I haven't tried it yet.

Mike Walsh over at A View from the Kitchen had a great link about asparagus from yesterday's New York Times. In the article they talk about a french asparagus varietal from the '30's that could grow to around 2 inches in diameter and around a pound per spear! Slap one of those on a bun and you've got a vegetarian hot dog.

Chinese Restaurant-Style Sautéed Green Beans

This is a green bean recipe that is very easy to do, yet will agree with some of the most finicky eaters. I have a teenage brother who will sit down and just shovel loads of Cheez-its in his mouth when there is perfectly good food in front of him. That changed when I brought these green beans over to my sister’s house last November. He kept going back and eating more and more of these things.

If I had to describe the taste, they actually taste like green beans with the sauce from PF Chang’s Mongolian Beef. I love Mongolian Beef, but I wasn’t sure if I wanted my green beans tasting like that. As it turns out it’s absolutely delicious.


Chinese Restaurant-Style Sautéed Green Beans
By Susie Middleton

Serves 2 to 3 as a side dish (more like 2)

• 1 Tbs less-sodium Soy Sauce
• 1 Tbs Honey
• 1 Tbs unsalted Butter
• 2 Tbs extra virgin Olive Oil
• 1# younger Green Beans, trimmed
• Kosher Salt
• 1 Tbs minced Garlic

Combine the soy sacue, honey, and 1 Tbs water in a small dish and set near the stove. Set a shallow serving dish near the stove, too.

In a 10-inch straight-sided sauté pan, heat the butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the green beans and ½ tsp salt and toss with tongs to coat well. Cook, turning the beans occasionally, until most are well browned, shrunken, and tender, 7 to 8 minutes. (The butter in the pan will have turned dark brown.)

Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic, and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until the garlic is softened and fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Carefully add the soy mixture (you’ll need to scrape the honey into the pan). Cook, stirring, until the liquid reduces to a glazey consistency that coats the beans, 30 to 45 seconds.

Immediately transfer the beans to the serving dish, scraping the pan with the spatula to get all of the garlicky sauce. Let sit for a few minutes and then serve warm.